Coastal Waters Forecast
Issued by NWS Boston, MA

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FZUS51 KBOX 032003
CWFBOX

Coastal Waters Forecast for Massachusetts and Rhode Island
National Weather Service Boston/Norton MA
403 PM EDT Wed Sep 3 2025

Coastal waters from the Merrimack River MA to Watch Hill RI out
to 25 NM

ANZ200-040900-
403 PM EDT Wed Sep 3 2025

.Synopsis for Massachusetts and Rhode Island coastal waters...
High pressure remains in control through Thursday before a cold
front approaches from the west Thursday night. Expect dry conditions
and winds less than 25 kts through Thursday, although seas may start
to build to around 4 feet on the outer waters. Next chance for
precipitation comes Friday and Saturday as the cold front moves
through.

$$

ANZ250-040900-
Coastal waters east of Ipswich Bay and the Stellwagen Bank
National Marine Sanctuary-
403 PM EDT Wed Sep 3 2025

.TONIGHT...S winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt,
diminishing to 5 to 10 kt after midnight. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave
Detail: SE 3 ft at 8 seconds and S 1 foot at 2 seconds.
.THU...S winds 5 to 10 kt, increasing to 10 to 15 kt with gusts
up to 20 kt in the afternoon. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: E 3 ft
at 8 seconds and S 2 ft at 3 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...S winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
3 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft at 4 seconds and E 3 ft at
8 seconds. Patchy fog. Vsby 1 to 3 NM.
.FRI...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 3 to
5 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft at 4 seconds and E 3 ft at 8 seconds.
.FRI NIGHT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas
3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft at 6 seconds.
.SAT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 3 to
4 ft. Wave Detail: SW 3 ft at 4 seconds and SE 3 ft at 8 seconds.
A chance of showers in the afternoon.
.SAT NIGHT...SW winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt,
becoming W 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt after midnight.
Seas 2 to 4 ft. A chance of showers in the evening, then showers
likely after midnight.
.SUN...NW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Showers likely.
.SUN NIGHT...W winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. A chance of
showers.
.MON AND MON NIGHT...N winds 10 to 15 kt. Gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
2 to 3 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ251-040900-
Massachusetts Bay and Ipswich Bay-
403 PM EDT Wed Sep 3 2025

.TONIGHT...S winds 5 to 10 kt. Gusts up to 20 kt this evening.
Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: E 3 ft at 8 seconds and SE 1 foot at
3 seconds.
.THU...S winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming SE 10 to 15 kt with gusts up
to 20 kt in the afternoon. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: E 3 ft at
8 seconds and SE 2 ft at 3 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...S winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: E 3 ft at 8 seconds and SE 2 ft at
4 seconds. A chance of showers after midnight.
.FRI...S winds 10 to 15 kt, increasing to 15 to 20 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft
at 4 seconds and E 3 ft at 8 seconds.
.FRI NIGHT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas
2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft at 4 seconds and E 2 ft at
8 seconds.
.SAT...S winds 10 to 15 kt, increasing to 15 to 20 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft
at 4 seconds and SE 2 ft at 7 seconds. A chance of showers in the
afternoon.
.SAT NIGHT...SW winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt,
becoming W 10 to 15 kt after midnight. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Showers
likely.
.SUN...NW winds around 10 kt. Seas around 2 ft. Showers likely.
.SUN NIGHT...W winds around 10 kt. Seas around 2 ft. A chance of
showers.
.MON AND MON NIGHT...N winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas around 2 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ231-040900-
Cape Cod Bay-
403 PM EDT Wed Sep 3 2025

.TONIGHT...S winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming SW after midnight. Seas
around 2 ft. Wave Detail: E 2 ft at 8 seconds and SE 1 foot at
2 seconds. Patchy fog after midnight with vsby 1 to 3 NM.
.THU...S winds around 5 kt, increasing to 5 to 10 kt with gusts
up to 20 kt in the afternoon. Seas around 2 ft. Wave Detail: E
2 ft at 8 seconds and S 1 foot at 2 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...S winds around 10 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: E 2 ft at 8 seconds and S 1 foot at
2 seconds. Patchy fog after midnight with vsby 1 to 3 NM.
.FRI...S winds 10 to 15 kt, increasing to 15 to 20 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S 2 ft
at 3 seconds and E 2 ft at 8 seconds.
.FRI NIGHT AND SAT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt.
Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: SW 2 ft at 3 seconds and SE 2 ft at
7 seconds.
.SAT NIGHT...SW winds 15 to 20 kt, becoming W 10 to 15 kt after
midnight. Gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: SW 2 ft
at 3 seconds and SE 2 ft at 7 seconds. A chance of showers in the
evening, then showers likely after midnight.
.SUN...N winds around 10 kt. Seas around 2 ft. Showers likely.
.SUN NIGHT...W winds around 10 kt. Seas around 2 ft. A chance of
showers.
.MON AND MON NIGHT...N winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas around 2 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ254-040900-
Coastal waters from Provincetown MA to Chatham MA to Nantucket MA
out 20 nm-
403 PM EDT Wed Sep 3 2025

.TONIGHT...SE winds around 5 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: E
3 ft at 8 seconds.
.THU...SE winds around 5 kt, becoming S in the afternoon. Seas
2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: E 3 ft at 8 seconds and S 1 foot at
2 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...S winds around 10 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: E 3 ft at 8 seconds and S 2 ft at
3 seconds. Patchy fog. Vsby 1 to 3 NM.
.FRI...S winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 3 to
4 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft at 5 seconds and SE 3 ft at 8 seconds.
.FRI NIGHT AND SAT...S winds around 15 kt with gusts up to 25 kt.
Seas 3 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft at 5 seconds and SE 3 ft at
8 seconds.
.SAT NIGHT...SW winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas
2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft at 5 seconds and S 3 ft at
8 seconds. A chance of showers.
.SUN...NW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Showers likely.
.SUN NIGHT AND MON...NW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. A
chance of showers.
.MON NIGHT...NE winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ255-040900-
Coastal Waters extending out to 25 nm South of Marthas Vineyard
and Nantucket-
403 PM EDT Wed Sep 3 2025

.TONIGHT...SE winds around 5 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: SE
3 ft at 8 seconds.
.THU...SE winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: SE 3 ft
at 7 seconds and S 1 foot at 2 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...S winds around 10 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: E 3 ft at 8 seconds and S 2 ft at
3 seconds. Patchy fog. Vsby 1 NM or less, increasing to 1 to 3 NM
after midnight.
.FRI...S winds 10 to 15 kt, increasing to 15 to 20 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 3 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S 4 ft
at 5 seconds and SE 3 ft at 8 seconds. Patchy fog in the morning
with vsby 1 to 3 NM.
.FRI NIGHT AND SAT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt.
Seas 4 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: S 4 ft at 6 seconds.
.SAT NIGHT...S winds 15 to 20 kt, becoming SW 10 to 15 kt after
midnight. Seas 3 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S 4 ft at 7 seconds. A
chance of showers.
.SUN...NW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas 3 to 4 ft. Showers likely. Vsby
1 to 3 NM.
.SUN NIGHT AND MON...N winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas 2 to 4 ft. A
chance of showers.
.MON NIGHT...NE winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ256-040900-
Coastal Waters from Montauk NY to Marthas Vineyard extending out
to 20 nm South of Block Island-
403 PM EDT Wed Sep 3 2025

.TONIGHT...S winds around 5 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: E
3 ft at 8 seconds.
.THU...S winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: E 3 ft at
7 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...S winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
3 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: E 3 ft at 8 seconds and S 2 ft at
3 seconds. Patchy fog in the evening with vsby 1 to 3 NM.
.FRI...S winds 10 to 15 kt, increasing to 15 to 20 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 3 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft
at 5 seconds and SE 3 ft at 8 seconds.
.FRI NIGHT AND SAT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt.
Seas 4 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: SW 4 ft at 5 seconds and S 4 ft at
8 seconds.
.SAT NIGHT...SW winds 15 to 20 kt, becoming W after midnight.
Gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: S 4 ft at
7 seconds. A chance of showers in the evening, then showers
likely after midnight.
.SUN...NW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas 3 to 4 ft. Showers likely.
.SUN NIGHT...NW winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
around 3 ft. A chance of showers.
.MON AND MON NIGHT...N winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt,
becoming NE. Seas 2 to 3 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ232-040900-
Nantucket Sound-
403 PM EDT Wed Sep 3 2025

.TONIGHT...S winds around 5 kt. Seas around 2 ft. Wave Detail: E
2 ft at 8 seconds.
.THU...S winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas around 2 ft. Wave Detail: S
1 foot at 2 seconds and E 1 foot at 8 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...S winds around 10 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: S 1 foot at 3 seconds and E 1 foot at
8 seconds. Patchy fog. Vsby 1 to 3 NM.
.FRI...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 2 to
3 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft at 4 seconds and SE 1 foot at
8 seconds.
.FRI NIGHT AND SAT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt.
Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: SW 3 ft at 4 seconds and SE 1 foot
at 8 seconds.
.SAT NIGHT...SW winds 15 to 20 kt, becoming W 10 to 15 kt after
midnight. Gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: SW 3 ft
at 4 seconds and SE 1 foot at 7 seconds. A chance of showers in
the evening, then showers likely after midnight.
.SUN...N winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas around 2 ft. Showers likely.
.SUN NIGHT AND MON...NW winds 10 to 15 kt, becoming N. Seas
around 2 ft. A chance of showers.
.MON NIGHT...NE winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas around 2 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ233-040900-
Vineyard Sound-
403 PM EDT Wed Sep 3 2025

.TONIGHT...S winds around 5 kt. Seas around 2 ft. Wave Detail: S
1 foot at 2 seconds and SE 1 foot at 8 seconds.
.THU...S winds around 5 kt, increasing to 5 to 10 kt in the
afternoon. Seas around 2 ft. Wave Detail: S 1 foot at 2 seconds
and SE 1 foot at 7 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...S winds around 10 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
around 2 ft. Wave Detail: S 1 foot at 3 seconds and SE 1 foot at
8 seconds. Patchy fog. Vsby 1 to 3 NM.
.FRI...S winds 10 to 15 kt, increasing to 15 to 20 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: SW
3 ft at 5 seconds and SE 2 ft at 8 seconds.
.FRI NIGHT AND SAT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt.
Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft at 6 seconds.
.SAT NIGHT...SW winds 15 to 20 kt, becoming W 10 to 15 kt after
midnight. Gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft
at 7 seconds. A chance of showers in the evening, then showers
likely after midnight.
.SUN...NW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas around 2 ft. Showers likely.
.SUN NIGHT AND MON...NW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas around 2 ft. A
chance of showers.
.MON NIGHT...NW winds around 10 kt. Seas around 2 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ234-040900-
Buzzards Bay-
403 PM EDT Wed Sep 3 2025

.TONIGHT...SW winds around 5 kt. Seas 1 foot or less. Wave
Detail: S 1 foot at 2 seconds and SE 1 foot at 8 seconds.
.THU...S winds around 5 kt, increasing to 5 to 10 kt in the
afternoon. Seas 1 foot or less, then around 2 ft in the
afternoon. Wave Detail: SE 1 foot at 7 seconds, becoming S 1 foot
at 2 seconds and SE 1 foot at 7 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...S winds around 10 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
around 2 ft. Wave Detail: S 1 foot at 2 seconds and SE 1 foot at
8 seconds. Patchy fog. Vsby 1 to 3 NM.
.FRI...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 2 to
4 ft. Wave Detail: SW 3 ft at 4 seconds and SE 1 foot at
8 seconds.
.FRI NIGHT AND SAT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt.
Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: SW 3 ft at 4 seconds and S 3 ft at
7 seconds.
.SAT NIGHT...SW winds 15 to 20 kt, becoming W 10 to 15 kt after
midnight. Gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft
at 6 seconds. A chance of showers in the evening, then showers
likely after midnight.
.SUN...NW winds around 10 kt. Seas around 2 ft. Showers likely.
.SUN NIGHT...W winds around 10 kt. Seas around 2 ft. A chance of
showers.
.MON AND MON NIGHT...NW winds around 10 kt. Seas around 2 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ235-040900-
Rhode Island Sound-
403 PM EDT Wed Sep 3 2025

.TONIGHT...S winds around 5 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: SE
3 ft at 8 seconds.
.THU...S winds around 5 kt, increasing to 5 to 10 kt in the
afternoon. Seas around 2 ft. Wave Detail: SE 2 ft at 7 seconds
and S 1 foot at 2 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...S winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: S 2 ft at 4 seconds and SE 2 ft at
8 seconds. Patchy fog in the evening with vsby 1 to 3 NM.
.FRI...S winds 10 to 15 kt, increasing to 15 to 20 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft
at 4 seconds and SE 3 ft at 8 seconds.
.FRI NIGHT AND SAT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt.
Seas 3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: S 4 ft at 6 seconds.
.SAT NIGHT...SW winds 15 to 20 kt, becoming W 10 to 15 kt after
midnight. Gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S 4 ft
at 7 seconds. A chance of showers in the evening, then showers
likely after midnight.
.SUN...NW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Showers likely.
.SUN NIGHT...NW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. A chance of
showers.
.MON AND MON NIGHT...NW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ237-040900-
Block Island Sound-
403 PM EDT Wed Sep 3 2025

.TONIGHT...SW winds around 5 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: SE
3 ft at 8 seconds.
.THU...S winds around 5 kt, increasing to 5 to 10 kt in the
afternoon. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: SE 2 ft at 7 seconds and
S 1 foot at 2 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...S winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Seas
2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: S 2 ft at 3 seconds and SE 2 ft at
8 seconds. Patchy fog in the evening with vsby 1 to 3 NM.
.FRI...S winds 10 to 15 kt, increasing to 15 to 20 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 25 kt. Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft
at 5 seconds and SE 3 ft at 8 seconds.
.FRI NIGHT AND SAT...S winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt.
Seas 3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: S 4 ft at 6 seconds.
.SAT NIGHT...SW winds around 15 kt with gusts up to 25 kt,
becoming W after midnight. Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S 4 ft at
6 seconds. A chance of showers in the evening, then showers
likely after midnight.
.SUN...NW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Showers likely.
.SUN NIGHT...NW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. A chance of
showers.
.MON AND MON NIGHT...NW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ230-040900-
Boston Harbor-
403 PM EDT Wed Sep 3 2025

.TONIGHT...S winds 5 to 10 kt. Gusts up to 20 kt this evening.
Waves around 2 ft this evening, then 1 foot or less.
.THU...S winds around 5 kt, becoming SE 10 to 15 kt with gusts up
to 20 kt in the afternoon. Waves 1 foot or less, then 2 to 3 ft
in the afternoon.
.THU NIGHT...S winds around 10 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Waves
around 2 ft. A chance of showers after midnight.
.FRI...S winds 10 to 15 kt, increasing to 15 to 20 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 25 kt. Waves around 2 ft. A chance of
showers in the morning.
.FRI NIGHT...S winds 15 to 20 kt, diminishing to 10 to 15 kt
after midnight. Gusts up to 25 kt. Waves around 2 ft.
.SAT...S winds 10 to 15 kt, increasing to 15 to 20 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 25 kt. Waves around 2 ft. A chance of
showers in the afternoon.
.SAT NIGHT...SW winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt,
becoming W 10 to 15 kt after midnight. Waves around 2 ft. Showers
likely.
.SUN...NW winds 5 to 10 kt. Waves 1 foot or less. Showers likely.
.SUN NIGHT...W winds 5 to 10 kt. Waves 1 foot or less. A chance
of showers.
.MON AND MON NIGHT...N winds around 10 kt, becoming NW. Waves
1 foot or less.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ236-040900-
Narragansett Bay-
403 PM EDT Wed Sep 3 2025

.TONIGHT...S winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming SW after midnight. Waves
around 2 ft. Patchy fog after midnight with vsby 1 to 3 NM.
.THU...S winds around 5 kt, increasing to 5 to 10 kt in the
afternoon. Waves around 2 ft.
.THU NIGHT...S winds around 10 kt with gusts up to 20 kt. Waves
around 2 ft.
.FRI...S winds 10 to 15 kt, increasing to 15 to 20 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 25 kt. Waves 2 to 3 ft.
.FRI NIGHT...S winds 15 to 20 kt, becoming SW 10 to 15 kt after
midnight. Gusts up to 25 kt. Waves 2 to 3 ft.
.SAT...S winds 10 to 15 kt, increasing to 15 to 20 kt in the
afternoon. Gusts up to 25 kt. Waves 2 to 3 ft. A chance of
showers in the afternoon.
.SAT NIGHT...SW winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 25 kt,
becoming W after midnight. Waves 2 to 3 ft. A chance of showers
in the evening, then showers likely after midnight.
.SUN...NW winds 5 to 10 kt. Waves around 2 ft. Showers likely.
.SUN NIGHT...NW winds 5 to 10 kt. Waves around 2 ft. A chance of
showers.
.MON AND MON NIGHT...NW winds 5 to 10 kt. Waves around 2 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

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