304
FZUS51 KBOX 300804
CWFBOX

Coastal Waters Forecast for Massachusetts and Rhode Island
National Weather Service Boston/Norton MA
403 AM EDT Tue Sep 30 2025

Coastal waters from the Merrimack River MA to Watch Hill RI out
to 25 NM

ANZ200-302100-
403 AM EDT Tue Sep 30 2025

.Synopsis for Massachusetts and Rhode Island coastal waters...
A cold front will pass south of the waters today, to be followed by
strong high pres tonight. Increasing NE winds to gale force are and
building seas are expected late tonight and Wed as Humberto makes
its closest approach. High pres then settles over the waters late in
the week, allowing for light winds.

$$

ANZ250-302100-
Coastal waters east of Ipswich Bay and the Stellwagen Bank
National Marine Sanctuary-
403 AM EDT Tue Sep 30 2025

...SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY IN EFFECT FROM 2 PM EDT THIS AFTERNOON
THROUGH LATE WEDNESDAY NIGHT...

.TODAY...N winds 10 to 15 kt, becoming NE this afternoon. Gusts
up to 20 kt. Seas 3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: SE 5 ft at 14 seconds
and NE 4 ft at 4 seconds.
.TONIGHT...NE winds 15 to 20 kt, increasing to 20 to 25 kt after
midnight. Gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 5 to 7 ft. Wave Detail: NE 7 ft
at 6 seconds and SE 4 ft at 14 seconds.
.WED...N winds around 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 7 to
10 ft. Wave Detail: NE 9 ft at 7 seconds and SE 4 ft at
14 seconds.
.WED NIGHT...NE winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas
7 to 10 ft. Wave Detail: NE 9 ft at 7 seconds and SE 5 ft at
15 seconds.
.THU...NE winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt, diminishing
to 10 to 15 kt in the afternoon. Seas 6 to 9 ft, subsiding to
5 to 7 ft in the afternoon. Wave Detail: NE 8 ft at 8 seconds and
SE 4 ft at 13 seconds, becoming NE 6 ft at 8 seconds and SE 3 ft
at 11 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...E winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming SW after midnight. Seas
4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: E 5 ft at 8 seconds and SE 2 ft at
11 seconds.
.FRI THROUGH SAT NIGHT...SW winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 3 to 5 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ251-302100-
Massachusetts Bay and Ipswich Bay-
403 AM EDT Tue Sep 30 2025

...SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY IN EFFECT FROM THIS EVENING THROUGH LATE
WEDNESDAY NIGHT...

.TODAY...N winds 10 to 15 kt, becoming NE this afternoon. Gusts
up to 20 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: NE 3 ft at 4 seconds
and SE 2 ft at 14 seconds.
.TONIGHT...NE winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt,
increasing to 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt after midnight.
Seas 2 to 3 ft, building to 3 to 5 ft after midnight. Wave
Detail: NE 3 ft at 5 seconds and SE 2 ft at 14 seconds, becoming
NE 5 ft at 6 seconds and SE 2 ft at 13 seconds.
.WED...N winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 5 to
7 ft. Wave Detail: NE 7 ft at 7 seconds and N 1 foot at
3 seconds.
.WED NIGHT...NE winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas
5 to 7 ft. Wave Detail: N 7 ft at 6 seconds and SE 1 foot at
16 seconds.
.THU...N winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt, becoming NE
10 to 15 kt in the afternoon. Seas 5 to 7 ft. Wave Detail: NE
7 ft at 8 seconds and SE 2 ft at 16 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...SE winds around 5 kt, becoming SW after midnight.
Seas 3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: NE 5 ft at 8 seconds and SE 2 ft at
11 seconds.
.FRI THROUGH SAT NIGHT...SW winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 2 to 4 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ231-302100-
Cape Cod Bay-
403 AM EDT Tue Sep 30 2025

...GALE WARNING IN EFFECT FROM THIS EVENING THROUGH LATE
WEDNESDAY NIGHT...

.TODAY...N winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming NE 10 to 15 kt with gusts
up to 20 kt this afternoon. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: N 2 ft
at 3 seconds and SE 2 ft at 15 seconds.
.TONIGHT...NE winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt,
increasing to 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt after midnight.
Seas 2 to 3 ft, building to 3 to 5 ft after midnight. Wave
Detail: SE 3 ft at 14 seconds and N 2 ft at 4 seconds, becoming N
5 ft at 5 seconds and SE 2 ft at 15 seconds.
.WED...N winds around 25 kt with gusts up to 35 kt. Seas 4 to
6 ft. Wave Detail: N 6 ft at 5 seconds and SE 3 ft at 15 seconds.
.WED NIGHT...NE winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 35 kt. Seas
5 to 7 ft. Wave Detail: N 6 ft at 6 seconds and SE 3 ft at
15 seconds.
.THU...NE winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt, becoming N
10 to 15 kt in the afternoon. Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: N 5 ft
at 6 seconds and SE 2 ft at 13 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...NE winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming W after midnight. Seas
2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: N 3 ft at 6 seconds and SE 2 ft at
11 seconds.
.FRI THROUGH SAT NIGHT...SW winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ254-302100-
Coastal waters from Provincetown MA to Chatham MA to Nantucket MA
out 20 nm-
403 AM EDT Tue Sep 30 2025

...SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY IN EFFECT THROUGH THIS EVENING...
...GALE WARNING IN EFFECT FROM THIS EVENING THROUGH LATE
WEDNESDAY NIGHT...

.TODAY...NW winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming NE 15 to 20 kt this
afternoon. Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: SE 6 ft at 15 seconds and
NE 4 ft at 6 seconds.
.TONIGHT...NE winds 15 to 20 kt, increasing to 20 to 25 kt after
midnight. Gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 5 to 8 ft, building to 7 to
10 ft after midnight. Wave Detail: S 6 ft at 15 seconds and NE
5 ft at 5 seconds, becoming NE 8 ft at 6 seconds and S 6 ft at
15 seconds.
.WED...NE winds 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 35 kt. Seas 9 to
12 ft. Wave Detail: NE 10 ft at 7 seconds and S 7 ft at
15 seconds.
.WED NIGHT...N winds 25 to 30 kt, becoming NE 20 to 25 kt after
midnight. Seas 9 to 12 ft. Wave Detail: NE 10 ft at 8 seconds and
S 6 ft at 14 seconds.
.THU...NE winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt, becoming N
10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt in the afternoon. Seas 7 to
10 ft. Wave Detail: NE 8 ft at 8 seconds and SE 3 ft at
12 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...NE winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming NW after midnight.
Seas 5 to 7 ft. Wave Detail: NE 6 ft at 8 seconds and SE 3 ft at
12 seconds.
.FRI AND FRI NIGHT...W winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 4 to 6 ft.
.SAT AND SAT NIGHT...SW winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 3 to 5 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ255-302100-
Coastal Waters extending out to 25 nm South of Marthas Vineyard
and Nantucket-
403 AM EDT Tue Sep 30 2025

...SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY IN EFFECT THROUGH THIS EVENING...
...GALE WARNING IN EFFECT FROM THIS EVENING THROUGH LATE
WEDNESDAY NIGHT...

.TODAY...NW winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming NE 15 to 20 kt with gusts
up to 25 kt this afternoon. Seas 5 to 7 ft. Wave Detail: S 7 ft
at 15 seconds and NE 1 foot at 3 seconds.
.TONIGHT...NE winds 15 to 20 kt, increasing to 25 to 30 kt after
midnight. Seas 6 to 9 ft, building to 8 to 11 ft after midnight.
Wave Detail: S 7 ft at 15 seconds and NE 4 ft at 4 seconds,
becoming NE 7 ft at 6 seconds and S 7 ft at 15 seconds.
.WED...NE winds 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 35 kt. Seas 9 to
12 ft. Wave Detail: NE 9 ft at 7 seconds and S 8 ft at
15 seconds.
.WED NIGHT...N winds 25 to 30 kt, becoming NE 20 to 25 kt after
midnight. Seas 9 to 12 ft. Wave Detail: NE 9 ft at 8 seconds and
S 7 ft at 14 seconds.
.THU...NE winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt, diminishing
to 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt in the afternoon. Seas 7 to
10 ft. Wave Detail: NE 6 ft at 8 seconds and S 3 ft at
12 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...NE winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 5 to 7 ft. Wave Detail: NE
5 ft at 9 seconds and S 2 ft at 11 seconds.
.FRI THROUGH SAT NIGHT...SW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas 3 to 5 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ256-302100-
Coastal Waters from Montauk NY to Marthas Vineyard extending out
to 20 nm South of Block Island-
403 AM EDT Tue Sep 30 2025

...SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY IN EFFECT THROUGH LATE WEDNESDAY NIGHT...

.TODAY...N winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming NE 15 to 20 kt this
afternoon. Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: SE 6 ft at 15 seconds.
.TONIGHT...NE winds 15 to 20 kt, increasing to 25 to 30 kt after
midnight. Seas 6 to 9 ft, building to 8 to 11 ft after midnight.
Wave Detail: SE 7 ft at 15 seconds and NE 6 ft at 5 seconds,
becoming NE 8 ft at 6 seconds and S 6 ft at 15 seconds.
.WED...NE winds 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 35 kt. Seas 9 to
12 ft. Wave Detail: NE 9 ft at 7 seconds and S 7 ft at
15 seconds.
.WED NIGHT...NE winds 25 to 30 kt, diminishing to 20 to 25 kt
after midnight. Seas 9 to 12 ft. Wave Detail: N 9 ft at 6 seconds
and SE 7 ft at 14 seconds.
.THU...NE winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt, diminishing
to 10 to 15 kt in the afternoon. Seas 7 to 10 ft, subsiding to
5 to 8 ft in the afternoon. Wave Detail: N 6 ft at 6 seconds and
SE 3 ft at 12 seconds, becoming NE 5 ft at 9 seconds and S 3 ft
at 12 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...NE winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 5 to 7 ft, subsiding to
4 to 5 ft after midnight. Wave Detail: NE 4 ft at 10 seconds and
S 2 ft at 12 seconds, becoming E 4 ft at 10 seconds and S 2 ft at
11 seconds.
.FRI THROUGH SAT NIGHT...SW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas 3 to 5 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ232-302100-
Nantucket Sound-
403 AM EDT Tue Sep 30 2025

...GALE WARNING IN EFFECT FROM THIS EVENING THROUGH LATE
WEDNESDAY NIGHT...

.TODAY...NW winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming NE 10 to 15 kt with gusts
up to 20 kt this afternoon. Seas 3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: SE 3 ft
at 15 seconds and NE 2 ft at 3 seconds.
.TONIGHT...NE winds 15 to 20 kt, increasing to 20 to 25 kt after
midnight. Gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: NE 4 ft
at 4 seconds and SE 3 ft at 14 seconds.
.WED...NE winds 25 to 30 kt with gusts up to 35 kt. Seas 5 to
7 ft. Wave Detail: N 5 ft at 5 seconds and S 3 ft at 15 seconds.
.WED NIGHT...NE winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 35 kt. Seas
5 to 7 ft. Wave Detail: N 5 ft at 5 seconds and S 3 ft at
14 seconds.
.THU...NE winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt, diminishing
to 10 to 15 kt in the afternoon. Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: N
4 ft at 5 seconds and SE 1 foot at 12 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...NE winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming N after midnight. Seas
2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: NE 3 ft at 8 seconds and N 1 foot at
4 seconds.
.FRI THROUGH SAT NIGHT...SW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ233-302100-
Vineyard Sound-
403 AM EDT Tue Sep 30 2025

...GALE WARNING IN EFFECT FROM THIS EVENING THROUGH LATE
WEDNESDAY NIGHT...

.TODAY...N winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming NE 10 to 15 kt with gusts
up to 20 kt this afternoon. Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S 4 ft
at 15 seconds and NE 1 foot at 3 seconds.
.TONIGHT...NE winds around 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt,
increasing to 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt after midnight.
Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: S 4 ft at 15 seconds and NE 3 ft at
4 seconds.
.WED...NE winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 5 to
7 ft. Wave Detail: N 4 ft at 4 seconds and S 4 ft at 15 seconds.
.WED NIGHT...NE winds 20 to 25 kt, diminishing to 15 to 20 kt
after midnight. Gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: N
4 ft at 5 seconds and S 4 ft at 14 seconds.
.THU...NE winds 10 to 15 kt. Gusts up to 25 kt in the morning.
Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: N 3 ft at 5 seconds and S 2 ft at
12 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...NE winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming NW after midnight.
Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: N 2 ft at 4 seconds and S 2 ft at
12 seconds.
.FRI THROUGH SAT NIGHT...SW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas around 2 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ234-302100-
Buzzards Bay-
403 AM EDT Tue Sep 30 2025

...GALE WARNING IN EFFECT FROM THIS EVENING THROUGH LATE
WEDNESDAY NIGHT...

.TODAY...N winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming NE 10 to 15 kt with gusts
up to 20 kt this afternoon. Seas 2 to 3 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft
at 15 seconds and NE 1 foot at 3 seconds.
.TONIGHT...NE winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt,
increasing to 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt after midnight.
Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: NE 3 ft at 3 seconds and S 3 ft at
15 seconds.
.WED...N winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 3 to
5 ft. Wave Detail: N 3 ft at 5 seconds and S 3 ft at 15 seconds.
.WED NIGHT...NE winds 20 to 25 kt, diminishing to 15 to 20 kt
after midnight. Gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: N
3 ft at 5 seconds and S 3 ft at 14 seconds.
.THU...NE winds 10 to 15 kt. Gusts up to 25 kt in the morning.
Seas 2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: N 2 ft at 5 seconds and SE 2 ft at
13 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...NE winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming NW after midnight.
Seas around 2 ft. Wave Detail: NE 2 ft at 5 seconds and S 1 foot
at 12 seconds.
.FRI THROUGH SAT NIGHT...SW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas around 2 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ235-302100-
Rhode Island Sound-
403 AM EDT Tue Sep 30 2025

...SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY IN EFFECT THROUGH LATE WEDNESDAY NIGHT...

.TODAY...N winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming NE 10 to 15 kt with gusts
up to 20 kt this afternoon. Seas 3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: S 5 ft
at 15 seconds and NE 1 foot at 3 seconds.
.TONIGHT...NE winds 15 to 20 kt, increasing to 20 to 25 kt after
midnight. Gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 5 to 8 ft. Wave Detail: NE 6 ft
at 5 seconds and SE 6 ft at 15 seconds.
.WED...NE winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 6 to
9 ft. Wave Detail: N 6 ft at 5 seconds and S 6 ft at 15 seconds.
.WED NIGHT...NE winds 20 to 25 kt, diminishing to 15 to 20 kt
after midnight. Gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 6 to 9 ft, subsiding to
5 to 7 ft after midnight. Wave Detail: N 6 ft at 5 seconds and SE
6 ft at 14 seconds, becoming N 5 ft at 5 seconds and SE 5 ft at
13 seconds.
.THU...NE winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt, diminishing
to 10 to 15 kt in the afternoon. Seas 4 to 6 ft. Wave Detail: N
4 ft at 5 seconds and SE 3 ft at 12 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...NE winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming N after midnight. Seas
2 to 4 ft. Wave Detail: S 3 ft at 11 seconds and N 2 ft at
5 seconds.
.FRI THROUGH SAT NIGHT...SW winds 10 to 15 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ237-302100-
Block Island Sound-
403 AM EDT Tue Sep 30 2025

...SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY IN EFFECT THROUGH LATE WEDNESDAY NIGHT...

.TODAY...N winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming NE 10 to 15 kt with gusts
up to 20 kt this afternoon. Seas 3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: SE 5 ft
at 15 seconds.
.TONIGHT...NE winds 15 to 20 kt, increasing to 20 to 25 kt with
gusts up to 30 kt after midnight. Seas 4 to 6 ft, building to
5 to 8 ft after midnight. Wave Detail: SE 6 ft at 15 seconds and
NE 4 ft at 4 seconds, becoming NE 5 ft at 5 seconds and S 5 ft at
15 seconds.
.WED...NE winds 20 to 25 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas 6 to
9 ft. Wave Detail: NE 6 ft at 6 seconds and S 6 ft at 15 seconds.
.WED NIGHT...NE winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Seas
6 to 9 ft. Wave Detail: NE 6 ft at 6 seconds and SE 6 ft at
14 seconds.
.THU...NE winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt, diminishing
to 10 to 15 kt in the afternoon. Seas 5 to 7 ft. Wave Detail: NE
5 ft at 5 seconds and SE 3 ft at 12 seconds.
.THU NIGHT...E winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming N after midnight. Seas
3 to 5 ft. Wave Detail: E 3 ft at 10 seconds and SE 3 ft at
12 seconds.
.FRI THROUGH SAT NIGHT...SW winds 5 to 10 kt. Seas 2 to 3 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ230-302100-
Boston Harbor-
403 AM EDT Tue Sep 30 2025

...SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY IN EFFECT FROM THIS EVENING THROUGH
WEDNESDAY EVENING...

.TODAY...N winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming NE 10 to 15 kt this
afternoon. Waves around 2 ft.
.TONIGHT...NE winds 10 to 15 kt, increasing to 15 to 20 kt with
gusts up to 30 kt after midnight. Waves 2 to 3 ft.
.WED...N winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Waves 2 to
3 ft, except 3 to 5 ft at the outer harbor entrance.
.WED NIGHT...NE winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Waves
around 2 ft, except 3 to 5 ft at the outer harbor entrance.
.THU...N winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt, becoming NE
5 to 10 kt in the afternoon. Waves around 2 ft in the morning,
then 1 foot or less. At the outer harbor entrance, waves 2 to
4 ft.
.THU NIGHT...SE winds around 5 kt, becoming SW after midnight.
Waves 1 foot or less, except 2 to 4 ft at the outer harbor
entrance.
.FRI THROUGH SAT NIGHT...SW winds 5 to 10 kt. Waves 1 foot or
less.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

ANZ236-302100-
Narragansett Bay-
403 AM EDT Tue Sep 30 2025

.TODAY...N winds 5 to 10 kt, becoming NE 10 to 15 kt this
afternoon. Waves 2 to 3 ft.
.TONIGHT...NE winds 10 to 15 kt, becoming N 15 to 20 kt with
gusts up to 25 kt after midnight. Waves 2 to 3 ft, except 4 to
6 ft at the bay entrance.
.WED...N winds 15 to 20 kt with gusts up to 30 kt. Waves 2 to
3 ft, except 4 to 6 ft at the bay entrance.
.WED NIGHT...NE winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 25 kt. Waves
2 to 3 ft, except 4 to 6 ft at the bay entrance.
.THU...N winds 10 to 15 kt with gusts up to 20 kt, becoming NE
5 to 10 kt in the afternoon. Waves 2 to 3 ft.
.THU NIGHT...E winds around 5 kt, becoming W around 5 kt after
midnight. Waves 2 to 3 ft.
.FRI THROUGH SAT NIGHT...SW winds 5 to 10 kt. Waves around 2 ft.

Seas are reported as significant wave height, which is the
average of the highest third of the waves. Individual wave
heights may be more than twice the significant wave height.

$$

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